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Your floor coverings are laid, but the separation between the two rooms is not the most aesthetic, even sorely lacking in finish. Never mind, the threshold bar is made for that. For aesthetics there is a plethora of models and colors, there is something for everyone. Use sharp colors to distinguish one piece from another, conversely, opt for discretion to create an effect of continuity. If its aesthetic side is no longer to be demonstrated, it should not be forgotten its safety side. First of all, it makes it possible to avoid the inhabitants of the places to stumble, even to fall when there is a small drop. Secondly, it protects the outer edges of the different floor coverings (laminate, carpet, linoleum, tiles, etc.) from repeated and intensive passages when it separates frequently used places of use. And finally, let's not forget, it facilitates the passage of wheelchairs for people with reduced mobility. There are several types of threshold bars. The most common is the flat or extra-flat threshold bar for delimiting two spaces. It can be adhesive, with anchors + screws or plastic anchors. The threshold bar can also have a leveling function, in cases where there is a difference in levels between two rooms. In this case, the threshold bar is also called "catch-up threshold bar". Most often asymmetrical, it will be used to soften the difference in level between the floors. In case of a big difference in height, you can use a somewhat special bar called "stair nosing" if the floor coverings are already installed, or use a "stop profile" if they are not.
Difficulty : easy Cost : 10 € first prizes Tools required : - A threshold bar (of sufficient width) - A hacksaw - One meter - A hammer and a wooden block - A drill and a drill bit adapted to the diameter of the dowels supplied with the threshold bar
Step 1: Measure and plot your benchmarks
The first step is to measure the width of the passage. Do not forget to take into account a possible cutout if the door jamb has a recess, it will then be necessary to take the largest measurement.
Transfer the measurement to the threshold bar, and draw any cutouts to adapt the threshold bar to the doorframe.
Step 2: Cut the threshold bar
Position the bar on a table and cut the bar face up on the top to avoid sharp and unsightly burrs. The pressure of the palm of the hand is sufficient, it is useless and risky to use a clamp which could crush or flatten the threshold bar. If you cannot do otherwise, place a cloth between the clamp jaw and the bar.
Step 3: Position the bar in situation
After verifying that the bar easily returns to its location, thread the screws into the groove provided for this purpose. The heads are slightly oval to prevent the screws from moving after installation to reduce the risk of play over time.
Draw an axis line on the ground - when possible, otherwise use the outer edge of the threshold bar as a rule to place your drilling marks - and mark the locations of the screws along this axis. Be precise in the alignment, otherwise the bar will have trouble taking its place. Place a screw at each end, as close to the wall as possible - making sure you can drill vertically - to prevent the ends of the bar from "bending". Distribute the rest of the screws equally. It is not necessary to put all the screws, but the more you put, the stronger the anchoring of the bar, but the less you will be entitled to error. Do according to the frequency of passage of the place.
Step 4: Drill the holes to insert the dowels
All the preparations are done, you can now drill. Beforehand, make sure with the owner that no underfloor heating pipe - in winter, a warmer area can feel to the touch - does not pass under the door threshold. Drill to the diameter indicated on the instruction manual of the threshold bar. Above all, it is important, drill longer than the length of the pegs otherwise the bar will not stick to the ground. Do not worry about the depth, the ankles are provided with flanges which prevent them from sinking.
Step 5: Present the threshold bar
The drilling is finished, you must now present the bar and the dowels in front of the holes. This done, you have two schools to finish the pose.
If you are calm about the diameter of the holes, you drive the plugs in directly with the screws. It's simpler, but it suggests that it takes less effort to drive the dowel into the hole than to drive the screw into the dowel. This is normally the case, but first try to drive a screw into the ankle and a dowel into a hole by hand, to gauge this effort. Above all, this technique makes it possible not to damage sensitive coatings such as tiling by an unfortunate hammer blow when inserting the pegs into the ground. If in doubt, remove the dowels and drive them in separately, trying to keep a good grip on the hammer. Ideally, the ankle collar should touch the ground, do not cut it. Then straighten the bar by driving the screws through the plugs. One last thing, when the floor is not straight or irregular, it is also possible to stuff the inside of the bar with acrylic sealant. This will minimize deformation, cracking, but also the cracking, synonymous with dust nests and cockroach landmarks.
Step 6: Attach the threshold bar
Slowly, with your hands, push the bar in while tapping the entire length regularly. The bar should not offer a great resistance to sinking at the start, otherwise there is a problem. Remove it and check while there is still time.
Take a block of soft wood, and tap to finish pushing the bar into its final location. Always tap with small strokes and disperse your strikes so that the bar always sinks horizontally. Never do one side, then the other.
If there is a protective plastic veil, you can remove it, the job is done.